After being in aesthetics for more than 10 years I get asked A LOT of questions about what to do at home, “what do you use?”, “what is the ONE product I should use”, “do I really need ALL of this product?” and my answer is always “that all depends on your skin and what your goals are!” See, the thing is, is that there is not just one product that will do it all or what I use may not be the best for your skin type and most common, yes, you just might need all of that product in your regimen!
I am going to give you a little insight why and how I make recommendations and how I train and help other providers and patients to think this way too.
Every person is different; it depends on your skin type, genetics, lifestyle and lastly, age. There is no way around it we are all going to get older, the goal is to keep our naturally, healthy looking skin NOT get older!
All products do work differently to achieve a different result, that is why we recommend more than one product, and that is why I am such a huge advocate of finding an aesthetician or aesthetic nurse to customize a regimen for you. A pre-determined anti-aging “kit” will not get you to the results you want.
Here are a few things to consider and how to determine what to start with depending on your age:
Before we start I have to say this, ALWAYS choose medical grade products, do not settle for over the counter or what you neighbor or friend is selling. The difference is potency and purity. If you want long term results you use what is going to sustain and work at the epidermal/dermal junction where we can make change in the skin. As well as using ingredients that are studied and formulated in its pure state, not diluted with preservatives, do not buy the marketing, buy results.
Now the good stuff:
Teens – This is the first thing I recommend to patients with teens, the skin cleansing device, Foreo. There really is nothing like it, using a silicone head so it is gentle enough for any skin type and it cleans out your pores like no other device I have used. Plus, you don’t have to replace anything, no brush head replacement; you don’t have to worry about bacteria getting stuck in the bristles (YUCK!) This is really for any age but if you start young this will be your go to device.
In your 20’s – Ah, the good days, where your cheeks had volume, you can laugh and be surprised with no wrinkles and if you are lucky breakouts were few. Here is the problem, being in your 20’s there really isn’t a care in the world when it comes to thinking sun damage or aging. I am sure there is or was a time where you heard your mom or someone older and wiser say “don’t do what I did and lay out with baby oil on a black mat” but seriously, don’t do that! The things you do when your 20 eventually come to haunt you, in many ways, but that is a whole other topic, but definitely when it comes to your skin. So the key is PREVENTION, these are my must haves in your 20’s:
- MEDICAL GRADE, BROAD SPECTRUM SPF – it’s in all caps for a reason – if you use nothing else, use this. And DO NOT buy it from CVS or Target, find a clinic that carries one for your skin type, they come in many variances, tinted or non to customize what you like. My favorite, Colorescience Even Up and the Sunforgettable Brush on Block SPF 50
- Vitamin C – This is an antioxidant that will help protect your skin from free radical and UV damage. No, it does not protect against the Sun but it repairs and prevents damage that UV rays can cause including sun damage. UV damage not only causes those pesky brown spots to come forward but also breaks down collagen that cause lines and wrinkles – like I said PREVENTION is key the quicker you protect your skin of this the better! My Favorite: Rejuv RX Multi – C Serum
- Retinol – In your teens you may have been on topical retinoids or Vitamin A creams for acne. But if you find a great medical grade retinol this is the product that you will see the most difference in texture and tone of your skin. It is not just for acne, it has proven clinical studies shown to prevent lines and wrinkles and sun damage by turning your cells over more quickly so that baby soft skin will be forever! My favorite: Rejuv RX Retnoin + Serum 10x
- Hyaluronic Acid – Very trendy right now, but it has always been in my top ingredients for really any age group because of its ability to immediately plump up the skin and build hydration in the skin. By age 30 we have already lost about 50% of our natural hyaluronic acid that we have in our skin, add this in when you’re in your 20’s you can start preventing the loss of hydration before it starts! My Favorite: Rejuv RX Hydrating and Peptide Boost (Blue Juice)
Alright on to our 30’s – Now hopefully you have been using home care in your 20’s so really it is just maintaining those results and modifying your regimen as your skin may be changing with hormones. If not I would recommend the products I talked about in your 20’s and then there is just a couple things I would add:
- Peptides- What peptides are designed to do is stimulate the fibroblasts in the skin to promote collagen and elastin production that then soften lines and wrinkles (your welcome for the science lesson ). The harder your fibroblasts work the better, being from the tundra, the analogy I like is peptides are like a jumper cable and your fibroblasts are the battery, we want to jumpstart those fibroblasts so they can keep working and building collagen to keep your skin looking plump and tight. My Favorite: Defenage 8 in 1 Bio Serum
- Eye Cream – The eye area is very delicate, it is very thin skin and it moves a lot because of smiling and animation, which is why it requires a separate product. This is one product I would add in sooner than later. My Favorite: Colorescience Total Eye Restore Regimen and Botox ( ok I know this is a treatment but seriously the BEST prevention for lines around the eye – don’t wait, I promise you will thank me!)
- Neck Treatment – This is usually the last thing people think about until it is too late, I hate to admit I am a prime example. The necklace lines and “turkey neck” are the last thing we want to happen as we get older, so take it from me start now by adding a neck cream in to start to prevent the aging process. The neck is different skin just like our eyes, it is thin, is constantly moving and needs to be treated differently, that is why there are different products to address this specific area. My favorite: Rejuv RX Retinol Body Lotion – (This is meant for the full body to address crepe skin but I have loved it for my neck and décolleté, so bonus use it all over!)
40’s – This is the time you should be using a pretty solid regimen in the morning and at night. If you have been doing this by the time you get into your 40’s your skin will have the age of your 20’s. We have the Visia to prove it! I do have a couple others to add to your regimen to make it complete and continue to correct and prevent, we are starting to get into the big players now!
- Growth Factors – Now this is getting deep into the science of skin but growth factors are one of the hardest to produce in terms of efficacy and stability in products. There has been the gold standard for growth factors which is the TNS essential serum, which has been one of my favs for a while. Now there is something even better to naturally produce new fibroblasts in the skin and replace the old what you get is healthier, smoother and glowing skin. My favorite: SoME Skin care that is all you – Your own PRP (platelet rich plasma) what does it better than your own body reproducing collagen!
- Exfoliation – This really should be done at all ages but I hear many patients say they don’t do this anymore because their skin is too dry or they don’t have acne. Exfoliation is not for acne or oily patients, it really is to slough off the dry dead skin that sits on the surface to make your skin look vibrate and radiant. One tip do not choose something too gritty, it can tear at the skin, choose an enzyme base or micro beads. My favorite: Defenage 2 Minute Reveal Mask
- Skin Tightening – Yes, now is the time, we are talking about devices, no it is not a topical product you put on the skin but gravity will start to take its tole whether we like it or not and there is one home device that I swear by NUFACE. It is a personal trainer for your face, it lifts and tightens around your jowls, cheeks, eye AND neck. This is a must have for every regimen when you get into your 40’s.
50’s and beyond – Don’t worry I am not saying life stops at 50, I will say there is not much more to add as your beauty and maturity continue to grow. This is where the good stuff is, your regimen is complete and you are looking and feeling your best! At this point everything we have built should continue to be used. Of course as our skin ages the regimen will be customized such as:
- Moisturizer – Adding in a heavier duty moisturizer during the winter months or replacing it for everyday use. My favorite: Rejuv RX Hydration Repair Balm
- Cleanser – There are two ways that women (and men) can go, dry or acne. Adult acne is the most common form of acne so it is not abnormal to get it in your 40’s and 50’s, even if you didn’t have it in your teens. Your cleanser is one way to start, you can incorporate a more gentle lotion cleanser for drier skin or move to a salicylic / Benzoyl peroxide cleanser for acne prone.
There you have it, I have shown you what goes through my mind when I am making a regimen for a patient. There is so much that goes into the making of a regimen and WHY we choose the products we do. I think of myself as a mad scientist putting together ingredients and formulas to create the perfect skin potion just for you!
Have fun the next time you are with your provider coming up with YOUR regimen and finding what works for you at any age!
Written by: Kellie Daley, Director of Sales and Service